STARTING DOGS ON HORSEBACK

by Hank Pritchard

Probably the best way to start a cowdog is in a pen with four or five head of dogbroke sheep. You can teach a dog things in a hurry that it may take months to teach from horseback, such as: sending the dog after cattle (can be a real problem especially when using only one dog); keeping the dog out as opposed to coming in too close to stock; teaching the dog "down" when working stock. You will build a good rapport with your dog faster. He will learn to take commands better and quicker. And the dog can be worked on a leash.

But there are a lot of dogs that start better on cattle. If the dog is extremely rough you will have to hold him out so much he will lose interest, especially if he's not real keen to work in the first place. Some dogs don't like the pressure of a corral fence around them.

Sometimes you can start a dog outside and bring him back inside after he has built up his confidence, especially if you see problems developing.

Even though starting them inside on sheep or even cattle may be the best way, a lot of people aren't going to do it that way. Call us lazy, too busy, maybe we just don't like working dogs in that kind of setting. If 1 am starting dogs for someone else and want to teach him a lot in a little time, I will start him on sheep, but most of my own dogs I start outside on cattle.

How old should a pup be to start? It's hard to say. After four or five months you can start to consider starting it's training. I start taking them on days that aren't going to be hard on them, i.e.too long, too hot, cows with baby calves. Chances are the pup will get lost or scared and be left. So, I stop to consider, will I have time or be able to go back and get him? I may have to come back the next day to find him.

How much training does he need before I take him out? Not much. I need to be able to catch him when I get back to the pickup if we are away from home. That's about all we need. If I'm at home even less.

Have a problem with that? A lot of people would. After all, a pup has to be properly socialized. He needs to bond with you to work for you. Right? Well not necessarily.
People like to cite the alpha wolf theory and explain how the trainer takes the place of the alpha wolf. I believe in that theory. But do you think the alpha wolf loves all the other pack members? Probably not. They're just waiting for the day when they are big enough to beat his butt! In the meantime they do what they know he can make them do. It is truly a pecking order. Respect the ones that are stronger than you. Now remember, you're the alpha wolf. They do just what they know you can make them do.
I'm not saying you shouldn't handle your pups a lot, just that it may not be as important as you thought.

When I take a pup out I will take three or four other dogs at the same time. I don't expect one dog to be Superman. I may send the older dogs a quarter or even a half mile to stop cattle. If the pup is hooked to the other dogs he is apt to go and stay with them instead of coming back to me. If I can send him when I want and make him get out of the way when I want, how much more control do I need in a pup? I have had dogs that would stay on the other side of a big bunch of cattle while I ate my lunch with no cue from me. Independent dogs they were. If the pup learns to depend on you all the time he will be less inclined to do these kinds of things.

I especially don't get after the pup—he can go anywhere he wants as long as he doesn't get in the way. Just let him have a good time. If he runs ahead of the cattle that's fine. If he stops them when I want to drive them, then I will have to get after him to get him out of the way. The same if he crosses in front of the cattle when the dogs are bringing them to me. I will be very careful not to get after him too much. Remember, do everything in little steps. You don't want to make him feel uncomfortable on the other side of the cattle, but you have to get him out of the way. I will holler at him first. If he doesn't listen I will throw something at him, a rock, stick, cow pie. Something big is better so he can see it. But remember it's easy to get too much correction, so give him the benefit of the doubt.

Anytime you physically correct a dog (and this is important), whether you use a stick, rock, pole, cane, leash, electric collar, or whatever, give your voice command, then the reinforcement—IMMEDIATELY after. Then he will associate your voice with the reprimand, not the raising of your hand or stick etc. This way when he hears your voice he knows to start responding. Just like when the alpha wolf starts to growl at him.

Positive reinforcement is probably not something the alpha wolf uses but it is very useful as a training tool. Positive reinforcement is rewarding good behavior. Usually just a word to let him know he did good or is in the right place such as behind the cattle.

If you don't have older dogs to take him with it will be a little harder. Just remember not to shut him off too much or you will have trouble getting him to start working again. If he's the kind that wants to work all the time he will be less likely to get turned off and not want to work. But, if he's the type that shows little interest you will have to be more careful how you handle him.

If he won't go when you send him try waiting until the cattle start to run, then say "get ahead",then run up and stop them yourself. Chances are, after a few times like this, he will run and help you. When he does, you slow your horse and let him beat you there. Main thing with a dog like this is not to get after him much at all. Better to have him in the way a little and wanting to work than to make him self-conscious by getting after him too much.

Human beings have a terrible problem with control. They think they have to keep calling their dog back to them. Remember the alpha wolf. Does he keep calling the young wolf back? No! He makes him get out. You should make the pup do the same. Don't call him back, let him go where he wants to as long as he isn't in the way. If he is holding the cattle up when you want to move them, make him get out, but don't call him back to you. If you are handling wild cattle, as soon as your dog comes back they will take off. Then he will have to run hard to catch them again. A few times like this on a hot day and you will lose the cattle. If you make him get out, he will be in a better position to stop them should they try to make a break. Don't try to down him because he will be too close to the cattle and they will try to fight with him. If you make him get out, then you can down him if you like.

I never teach a down until he knows his "get out" command well. Otherwise he will want to down instead of get out.

Remember the old saying `You can't have your cake and eat it too'? Well it goes for dogs too. It's a natural thing for a good herding dog to hold stock up to you, but when you let him drive them away he gets confused and loses his direction. You can't have it both ways.

Now I know you've seen dogs drive stock away from their handler at trials, but these are highly trained dogs working under tightly controlled conditions. You're just asking for trouble if you try it with your ranchdog. For one thing, ranchdogs have to think on their own. It's natural for them to hold stock up to the alpha wolf (in this case, you). If you teach them to drive cattle away they will drive them away when you want them to go around and bring them back, especially if it's hard work to get around the stock. Just don't do it. You will wind up with better dogs. Remember what you really need a dog for. You can drive the slow ones, but you can't get ahead of the fast ones!
You should practice having your dog hold cattle up to you. Let him stop the stock every time they start to take off. If they come by you, ride your horse around behind the cattle so you're on the opposite side from the dog again. Don't be afraid to move your horse around to help keep your dog on the opposite side of the stock.

When he pushes them too hard make him get out and stay back, as long as the cattle don't try to leave.

You can also let him bring the cattle to you, just ride away and tell him to "Bring `em". Don't let him go between you and the cattle or ahead of you unless the cattle pass you up. I should say, try not to let him do that. At first, just get after him a little. As he gets better insist on it.

And of course you will have to call the dog to you sometime. Just remember, not too much. It's not as important as you may have thought.

I don't, as a rule, make my dogs stay behind my horse. I would rather they were out in front of me where I can see them. If you want to teach your dogs to hunt cattle it is very easy if your dogs are out in front. When they get out too far, I call them back, usually with a single whistle. Every time I change directions I call the dogs, turn my horse and go the other way. Sometimes I change directions just to teach them to come back. They learn to come back because they don't want to get left. No strain, no pain, they teach themselves.

I guess you could say I'm not a control freak. You really can't be if you run two dogs or more at one time. Normally if I lose the cattle, or can't get the job done, it's because the dogs don't have enough get to head, or lack of power, usually the latter. Lack of control comes somewhere way on down the list.

I start most of my pups this way, outside, horseback. A lot of people would have a problem with this I know, but it works quite well. Besides, it's natural and that's in vogue nowadays.